From branding to solidarity: The COVID-19 impact on marketing Strachítunt cheese from Val Taleggio, Italy
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.3986/AGS.10577Keywords:
cheese, geographical indications, solidarity economy networks, heritage, Northern ItalyAbstract
Branding, labelling and certification are the principal instruments for marketing heritage cheese in the Italian Alps. However, the COVID-19 pandemic has put considerable strain on these tools. In Val Taleggio, where the Protected Designation of Origin cheese Strachítunt is made, the cooperative of producers suffered a breakdown in access to markets during the lockdown of March–May 2020. Their strategy was to appeal directly to consumers, connecting digitally with solidarity economy networks such as Gruppi di Acquisto Solidale (Solidarity Purchase Groups). Building on long-term ethnography, the article shows how this appeal brought to the surface a shared discourse and understanding of proximity and solidarity, which is not usually employed in the language of certification and labelling.
Downloads
References
Barham, E. 2003: Translating terroir: The global challenge of French AOC labelling. Journal of Rural Studies 19-1. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/S0743-0167(02)00052-9
Bassi, L. 2020: Non solo Strachítunt e Taleggio. BergamoNews. Internet: https://www.bergamonews.it/2020/05/15/non-solo-strachitunt-e-taleggio-la-coop-santantonio-e-formaggi-di-qualita-e-cura-del-territorio/372294/ (15. 5. 2020).
Bindi, L., Grasseni, C. 2014: Media heritagization of food. Arxius de Ciències Socials 30. DOI: https://hdl.handle.net/10550/43481
Bowen, S., De Master, K. 2011: New rural livelihoods or museums of production? Quality food initiatives in practice. Journal of Rural Studies 27-1. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jrurstud.2010.08.002
Cavanaugh, J. R., Shankar, S. 2014: Producing authenticity in global capitalism: Language, materiality, and value. American Anthropologist 116-1. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/aman.12075
Coombe, R. Ives, S., Huizinga, D. 2014: Geographical indications: The promise, perils and politics of protecting place-based products. Sage Handbook on Intellectual Property. Thousand Oaks.
Enthoven, L., Van den Broeck, G. 2021: Local food systems: Reviewing two decades of research. Agricultural Systems 193. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.agsy.2021.103226
Grasseni, C. 2009: Developing skill, developing vision. Practices of locality at the foot of the Alps. Oxford.
Grasseni, C. 2014: Re-localizing milk and cheese. Gastronomica 14-4. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2014.14.4.34
Grasseni, C. 2017: The heritage arena. Reinventing cheese in the Italian Alps. Oxford.
Guthman, J. 2007: The Polanyian way? Voluntary food labels as neoliberal governance. Antipode 39-3. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-8330.2007.00535.x
Holt, G., Amilien, V. 2007: Introduction: From local food to localised food. Anthropology of Food S2. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4000/aof.405
Invernizzi, S. 2020: Lo Strachítunt nelle vostre case direttamente dalla Val Taleggio: come ordinarlo. BergamoNews. Internet: https://www.bergamonews.it/2020/04/23/lo-strachitunt-nelle-vostre-case-direttamente-dalla-val-taleggio-come-ordinarlo/368003/ (1. 6. 2022).
Ledinek Lozej, S. 2021: Labelling, certification and branding of cheeses in the Southeastern Alps (Italy, Slovenia): Montasio, Bovec, Tolminc and Mohant cheese. Acta geographica Slovenica 61-1. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3986/AGS.8746
May, S., Sidali, K. L., Spiller, A., Tschofen, B. 2017: Taste | Power | Tradition. Geographical indications as cultural property. Göttingen. DOI: https://doi.org/10.17875/gup2017-1004
Heath, D., Meneley, A. 2007: Techne, technoscience, and the circulation of comestible commodities: An introduction. American Anthropologist 109-4. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1525/aa.2007.109.4.593
Merlino, V. M., Sciullo, A., Pettenati, G., Sottile, F., Peano, C., Massaglia, S. 2022: “Local production”: What do consumers think? Sustainability 14-6. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/su14063623
Ministero delle Risorse Agricole, Alimentari e Forestali. 1994. Gazzetta Ufficiale della Repubblica Italiana. Serie Generale n.228, 29 settembre 1994. Modificazioni al disciplinare di produzione della denominazione di origine del formaggio «Taleggio». Internet: https://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/3340 (15. 5. 22).
Nemes, G., Chiffoleau, Y., Zollet, S., Collison, M., Benedek, Z., Colantuono, F., Dulsrud, A. et al. 2021: The impact of COVID-19 on alternative and local food systems and the potential for the sustainability transition: Insights from 13 countries. Sustainable Production and Consumption 28. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.spc.2021.06.022
Regione Lombardia, 2021. Proposta modifica disciplinare di produzione della (DOP) «Strachitunt». Bollettino Ufficiale, Serie Ordinaria n.11. Martedì 16 marzo 2021. Internet: https://www.regione.lombardia.it/wps/wcm/connect/692bea7c-493e-4dfe-8b56-76aeb9fd74e5/Comunicato+regionale+9+marzo+2021+-+n.+34+-+proposta+di+modifica+disciplinare+Strachitunt+proposta+dal+Consorzio+dello+Strachitunt+Valtaleggio.pdf?MOD=AJPERES&CACHEID=ROOTWORKSPACE-692bea7c-493e-4dfe-8b56-76aeb9fd74e5-nwWlemw (16. 3. 21).
Siniscalchi, V. 2009: I processi di tipicizzazione tra singolarità e ripetizione. Culture della sostenibilità 6. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3280/CDS2009-006004
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2022 ZRC SAZU Anton Melik Geographical Institute
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.